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Siena, Promise: Can O2 Sensor Make My Car Stop When In Motion?

Guys,

I drive a 2002 Nissan Altima. I posted some issues here sometimes ago about the car. About a month ago, the car suddenly stopped on the road. It was diagnosed and the mechanic said the camshaft, MAF and O2 sensors are bad.

I changed the camshaft sensor and MAF sensor. The car has been fine since then.

A few days back, I was driving and as I made to negotiate a turn, the power went off, I turned off the ignition and put it on again and it came on. Yesterday, the power went off a couple of times on motion and it came back afterr a hard try.

The mechanic said to me on the phone that it may be becos we didnt change the O2 sensor. I used to think that O2 sensor cant make a car behave that way.

Auto Doctors, please advise,

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78 answers

sorry, the above post is from me. someone logged on to nairaland on my system and i thought its my log on,

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sbm,

what a big relief! i bet it must be the loose sensors causing all this wahala in the first place.

after this experience, you now know what to do should something like this occur in the future.

cheers!

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I'm not at home now looks like a loose sensor, will double check when i get home.

Read the codes and see what applies.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1490107

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@chief, thanks alot for your help.

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Some of these mechanics can be terrible. They can get a gear that has been replaced from one customer and sell to you. I dont know how this works in Abuja, BUT in lagos there are scan places everywhere.

Why dont you try another scan place, at least let them tell you what sensors are detected bad (IF ANY) and you can start from there BEFORE buying another gear. Sorry for the wahala.

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@dustydee

Strictly my point of view from experience:

The Gear problem could affect your engine IF you continue driving it .

I would not advise you waste any more $ on that gear - Just change it. You can get a tokumbo for your exact model (Exact as in exact, not 02/03 or 03/04, get the exact manufacture year). Make sure the sensor tray that is there is not tampered with and that the replacement one will fitted - the gear itself and the sensor connectors connected too. Some mechanics overlook all those things and in the end you have a working gear BUT those gear indicator lights on the dash and gear knob side wont work/work well.

After this step, then we can see whats going on with the engine side.

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Once again the error codes are

AT: 45-01,45-06,

Engine :71-01,71-02.

Thanks for your help.If you have any number I can call or any mechanic in abuja that is reliable(I have spent a lot trying to fix this car - I mean it alot that I dont want to mention)Accord 2003 model.Thanks house.

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All,

This is mind blowing and u need to hear it.

A mechanic went to cheeck my car and diagnozed. He went under the car, checked the O2 sensor and saw that it was not well connected. He fixed that and they drove the car for a long while without stopping.

I have told them to fill the tank and drive it all over the city to be sure. This sounds too simple to all the contributions here. By the time I get back home and I check it, I will give you guys a concrete feedback.

Thanks all

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onwan/chief d,

your uncouth outbursts only goes to show how low you can get. your in a forum which clearly frowns against the use of multiple ids and here you are boasting about your mis-deeds!

did this 'software' problem start as far back as june 2008? how come you have been registered with this same chief d user id all along while 'onwan' was still in use?

my brother, be guided pls. your expletives don't add one inch to your inflated sense of importance!

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@dustydee

Its clear that the guy has the tool (sfx autoboss) but does not know how to interprete the codes (which makes him not very good for your diagnostics issues) - some tools have similar codes for someo errors while some have their own keys. Basically, you might help him by asking for the manual of the tool itself and then you can read up the codes and from the table set you will be able to interprete it yourself.

Generally, I think the AT = Automatic Transmission, and the codes and your Engine code shows there are concerns in those parts.

Why not let the house know what problems you are having withe vehicle in the first place; this might help in the toubleshooting. There also are other diagnostic centers (there is even one advertised on nairaland) where you can get people who can at least tell you what their computer says.

Sultaan what do you say?

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I have this Honda accord 2003, gives the following error codes,please what does it mean?the guy said he doesnt knw yet

AT

45-01,45-06

Engine

71-01,71-02

Please help

he uses sfx autoboss

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@George_D

Do you even have brains at all?

My user ID cant log in due to software problems and I have reported it and its being worked on and Im using a different ID to contribute positively to help someone with his problems in the forum and you are talking about seun, and taking things kindly?

Im not by any means on the same level as you are - considering a thread like this and all you have been posting; being to discourage the owner and not even a line on troubleshooting. I dont mean to be insultive BUT I dont deal with empties. Kindly let me have my space and contribute to what the poster has.

Please mind your business and lets stick to the poster's issue here. You are not my business and I intend you understand that fact clearly.

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still your violating the rules-software problems or not. seun may not take kindly to this!

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My other user name has that software problem BUT they are working on it.

If it was multiple ID, I wont have told you its me. Intelligently.

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@George_D

I wonder what your "reality" is, your posts have no contribution to helping the vehicle's problems, its just all about discouraging the owner. You need to contribute intelligently. What do you even drive?

By the way, this is Onwan.

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@George_D

Different cars have their different problems. If he likes his car, then let him deal with its problems. Some other folks have that model and aint complaining because they have not encountered that problem with it. Same way some folks have your "ideal" vehicle and would label it the Ultimate lemon.

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sbm,

well you are already seeing for yourself that your not the only one with issues driving that model year.

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@sbm4real

Look at your pedals there are switches on the brake pedals that is probably cause of stall, P1572

They are on the hinge of the pedal

http://www.nissanforums.com/general-maxima-discussion/140619-suddenly-dead-vehicle-dtc-p1572.html

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@Sbm4real

Do not change your engine.

He might be right to have changed his fuse box and some other things at the same time and not knowing what excactly solved the problem - this happens all the time.

We have discussed some issues here; for me you should start with basic and practical things - like your brainbox. Im sure of that for a start.

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Gents,

I met a guy that drives my kind of car and i told him about the issues I am having. He said he had something close to that and he had to change the fuse box,

That is far away from what we have been discussing so far, He also said I could check if there is any leakage around the wire that covers the plug ( i dont know the technical name).

I dont know if a complete change of engine will solve this issue,

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@George_D,

thats the word,

I now know exactly what things to look for when buying another car,

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@George_D

Except from a manufacturer that compromise quality, and a generally recalled brand/model/year; I do not believe your theory. It all depends on what, how and where you drive.

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onwan,

do your home work well. some brands pose more problems than others. even within the same brand some model yrs are more trouble owing either to a change in engine design, transmission, etc. read my lips!

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@Sultaan

That level of reset is worse in the S Class; you have to tell the ECU what level of glass winding is required; you even have to tell the ECU the level of headlamp setting that is full, even the open roof too - not to talk of calibrating the ESP and Airmatics. You simply have to love the car you drive to cope with its maintenance.

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OK thank for the info.

We were talking about the same thing

Any mech that works on a car, codes has to be reset with scantool.

It can also be done(on some cars) by disconnecting negative terminal of battery for about 10 min.

If battery is disconnected in Honda radio will not work that is why the radio unlock thread is very active.

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OK thank for the info.

We were talking about the same thing

Any mech that works on a car, codes has to be reset with scantool.

It can also be done(on some cars) by disconnecting negative terminal of battery for about 10 min.

If battery is disconnected in Honda radio will not work.

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@Sultaan

Actually the ECU is also referred to as the Brainbox; and as a computer engineer, reseting the brainbox means simply zeroing the memory of the brainbox (which is what your OBD tools simply reads and interprete) and at this stage; the brainbox has to re-learn your vehicle.

And about flashing - it means mapping or transferring a predetermined data unto a memory space (Not the same as a reset); and in this case I dont know IF its done or what tools you use for that - I only know of manual DIY after a car's brainbox is reset, you start the car, drive slow, then fast.

My advise on the reset is from experience after wasting money on sensors and nuzzles. We need to understand and consider the fact that the poster is not in the States, or even in Lagos - He is in Port Harcourt - Thats why one has to be as practical as possible in suggestions. Its not that easy or inexpensive to handle autos there.

Anyway, its nice to learn about any vehicle one drives; I just successfully reset my S500's ECU but Im trying to get it in Dyno mode so I can work some magic and get the damn ESP and BAS lights off my dash.

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I know you are a fan of brainbox reset, unfortunately I don't know what that implies.

I know ECU can be flashed(reset) but only by dealer if necessary or as a TSB(Technical Service Bulletin)

The standard thing is to reset obd after working on faults otherwise it takes a couple of cycles before car turns off the MIL

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I think he should have his brainbox reset or IF there is a spare he should try it out. The former thread was where he decided to buy the new MAF (If he bought the right one, then it should be okay - except he bought a fake which will explain malfunction after a month).

The noise from the in-tank fuel pump is not the start-up priming noise from what he posted above - Its more of a noise at normal engine running. Well, it wont do any harm if he has it checked out though.

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@ Midas02 & Siena here is where it all began

http://www.nairaland.com/nigeria?topic=409650.msg5688526#msg5688526

I hope he made sure the part # of the replcement MAF is same as the old on

Don't touch fuel pump, the sound is normal, the pump primes line when ignition is turned on.

I know you give out info on what you see and hear, but its the things you don't see/hear that will solve this and your mech is the only one who sees whats going on.

The problem is simple, with right tool and skill.

Check those part numbers first must be same unless a revision/update.

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@Siena, in my opinion and in my experience, disruption of the smooth operation of MAFS (Mass Airflow Sensor) thru various means has been known to and could lead to engine stalling in idle.

@Sbm4real - Having read a lot of 'interesting' inputs here, I will suggest you listen to and work closely with Siena as he takes you thru the necessary elimination process. Since he is not there to go thru the elimination procedure himself, he will have to rely on you and your response to isolate the problem. It takes patience! You cannot keep jumping from advise to advise! you must follow an elimination process otherwise you will only compound the problem.

For what it is worth, I will suggest 3 possible culprits to Siena so that he can advise you accordingly. The lengthier explanation is only for the benefit of Sbm4real. Siena, please feel free to verify or eliminate as deemed necessary:

CPS (Crank Position Sensor): This is the most likely candidate. The CPS is particularly notorious for not registering any code on the ECM. Whenever you have a situation in which this component is malfunctioning, it makes starting your engine a sporadic and unpredictable affair. Eventually, the CPS will go completely bad and the engine will not start! Here is an extract of a recall that your car might have missed a few years ago! :

“The 2002 and early 2003 Nissan Altima's had a recall to replace the crank position sensor. The problem caused by the sensor would not allow the vehicle to start or would stall it. When I had my 03 3.5 SE I had to replace the sensor, although I never had a problem. According to an AP article, the government has had 29 more complaints of 03 Altimas that were not originally included in the recall. Nissan said it would fully cooperate in the investigation. Recall Info 2002 Nissan Altima Base Recall ID from NHTSA: 03V455000 Recall Date: 11/17/2003 Potential Units Affected: 630000 Summary: ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR OR CAM POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS. Defect Consequence: THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH. Remedy: DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR(S), AND IN SOME CASES, THE VARIABLE TIMING CONTROL SENSOR(S).”

MAFS (Mass Airflow Sensor): First of all, I hope the MAFS that you purchased is the correct and in good shape. Also I hope it was not pulled off some random Nissan vehicle with no means of verifying year and model specifics. Lastly, I hope you your mechanic knows that MAFS is not interchangeable btw different models or sub-models and it is best to buy it new. Most car's are designed with an air intake boot, this boot is used to transfer engine intake air from the MAF (mass air flow) sensor to the engines throttle body which leads to inside the engine. When an air intake tube fails it allows non-metered air into the engine throwing off the engine management system and causing the engine to stall at idle. Inspect the air intake boot by removing it and flexing the tube while looking at the folds in the flex joints, this is usually an easy task to perform. There should be no rips or tears in the tube, if so replace the tube with a new unit and recheck system. If the air intake tube checks "ok" proceed to the next step.

THROTTLEBODY: The engine throttle body is designed to control the air intake into the engine; along with the throttle body there is an IAC motor (Idle Air Control) which controls engine speed by regulating idle air volume. When your foot is off the gas pedal the car's computer adjusts this motor to allow more or less air to the engine to control engine idle speed. When this system develops coking (a light tar condition from mass amounts of air being processed) it will cause a poor engine idle quality and cause stalling. A throttle body and IAC motor service is required. Throttlebody and IAC should be cleaned frequently to avoid stalling (especially in Naija).

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@George_D

Thats from one page; even on that one page you will see someone recommending the car. The way you maintain your car and how you drive matters a lot.

Ive read a review where someone said he would have bought a camel than the 2006 VW Touareg, on the same page another called it the best SUV. I think its personal.

Some people have a website seriously criticizing the Hummer H2 - www.fuh2.com - meanwhile on autos.msn.com you will be shocked at some very serious devotion and high recommendations for that brand/model.

But IF one likes a brand/model, then one should be ready for whatever. I bought a Merc that was showing me Airmatic Errors on the dash, and still went ahead because I simply love the model.

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@Sbm4real

There is an online club for lexus owners where people discuss various problems and solutions. That was where I got the MAF idea from and quickly did a test and it pointed to it and then I had it changed BUT kept the replaced one.

The brainbox fix took care of the problem for my car at that time.

The fuel pump worked intermittently and had low pressure and after it was changed the vehicle has been very superb. You should have them check yours for pressure - its important. The toks fuel pump usually costs between 4k and 7k. They will only change the pump and still use the original housing assembly and the original filter that is attached to the pump. I am assuming your car/model has only one fuel pump (usually sitting in the tank)

Also try and find out IF your vehicle has a pre-supply fuel pump (usually located under the driver's seat); it messes up the system when its worn out.

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@onwan,

The lexus that you changed its MAF, did u diagnose it to discover it was MAF b4 changing or you just assumed?

Is it possible that the problem is the fuel pump? A guy said he is hearing some whistling sound from my fuel tank and that is the fuel pump. Could that be the problem?

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He said he just bought a brand new one a month ago. The thing is that IF he was in Lagos, he would have gone for toks and bought two units - just in case. It might be worth the try getting another one - BUT Im positive it will be worth it having the brainbox checked.

@Siena

Most Japs. have wiring problems traceable to the brainbox. I once changed MAF (For a Lex) - It was a rough idle problem - the problem continued; based on my internet research, I had the nuzzles serviced, changed those sensors at the throttle body and the other end too - the problem continued until I paid some guy 3k to work on the brainbox. The shaking stopped and he placed the original sensors back and the vehicle works very well till now. (I changed the fuel pump for low pressure last month though)

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Worth noting. . .

Not all MAF failures are picked up by OBD scans. If the hot film / hot wire's contaminated by oil mist, it'll alter the values just enough for the car to over fuel at low RPM. It will not trigger a CEL, or show on a scan at this point. It only triggers a CEL if the hot wire / hot film's actually broken, so open circuit. The same fault will also be triggered by a broken connection in the wiring.

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If it can be verified with certainty to be at fault, yes.

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@Sbmreal

Its a wiring problem; which can be frustrating at times BUT is an easy fix with a good auto wiring person (rewire guy). I would advise you to let the same rewire that helped you change the MAF to change/check the brainbox. If you were in Lagos, I would have advised you have it reset.

If you abandon the car and move to the next one, you will still have to face these kind of issues with regular use. From your posts I remember you had a thread up a while back when you talked about changing the MAF with a new one. Please have them check/reset your brainbox OR change it. Most sensor issues trace back to it.

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Gents,

I am abandoning this car until I get a competent mechanic to look at it because it seems the sensors are not the only problems and some other things could have triggered the sensors.

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@Sultaan

^^^ Very cool move; it gets easier with a thorough knowledge of one's vehicle

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true talk but seems to me from my research on reliabilty issues on the altima, this car is more prone to this sensor isues than other brands in its category.

vis from msn autos:

"Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Crankshaft Position (CKP) and Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensors and screws falling out of the intake manifold Power Valve on the 2.5L engine. Failure of the CKP Sensor or the CMP Sensor may cause the engine to stall, and may cause the Check Engine Light to illuminate. When the intake manifold Power Valve screws fall out they enter the engine through the intake manifold and can damage the spark plugs causing the engine to misfire or may damage the engine block. In some cases, problems with the Engine Sensors and intake manifold Power Valve screws may be covered by a factory recall. The cost to replace the CKP Sensor is $17.30 for parts and $26.00 for labor. The cost to replace the CMP Sensor is $58.64 for parts and $39 for labor. The cost to remove the intake manifold and replace the Power Valve screws is estimated at $50.00 for parts and $195.00 for labor. The cost the replace the engine short block is estimated at $2650.00 for parts and $1,040.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax."

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When you scan, don't just go to someone who will give you codes with these type of issues.

I have a scanne that will read live data(that is what you need)

You plug it in while driving and view the voltage(data on sensor).If its you IAT, MAF you will see the range ad know if its out so instead of changing sensor, you may look at what might be affecting it.MAF is triggerred by dirty oil fumes going pass filter to condense in it so if you air fiter has oil that could be a problem. We can only guess from your statement, a good mech should know what to do.I don't drive a Nissan( no experience) but I can tell yu everything about a Jeep grand cherokee cos I have been owned 2 in 3years

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Thanks all! I want to change the sensors and see what next, I want to change the sensors because i dont want it to turn into a bigger issue.

Any contrary opinion sirs?

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@George_D

This can happen in any vehicle or even worse. The issue actually is how quickly it is taken care of.

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@Onwan

The cheapest MAF sensor i have purchased was sold for 16k with abeg. Anyway e fit be say u buy from producer lol.

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@Sbm4real

Im assuming that the scanner picked the MAF earlier and you changed it, then the MAF error disappeared. IF the scan doesn't bring back the MAF, then it means your MAF is still okay, then change the things the scan tells you is faulty.

I remember I posted earlier on a thread you created back then that "Grade A" MAF costs about 4k to 6k at Ladipo but I guess it was easier for you or your mechanic to buy the new one in PH for 35k.

If the scan does not pick the MAF, then its NOT faulty.

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@Onwan,

Are you saying a MAF sensor costs between 4-6k in Ladipo? I stay in Portharcourt and they sold that piece to me at 35k or thereabout,

I changed the MAF sensor last month and the scannner didnt pick it up this time, could it still be the MAF?

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@sbm4real

Sorry, mine is a QX4 Infiniti, but they generally share a wiring platform. You can get a spare MAF to check also, before the row of sensors.

@Blackkboi

You are right BUT he could have been sold a faulty one. If the price range is the same as I generally assume - 4k to 6k, I will suggest he buys two and get a "guaranty" of at least 3 months from the seller.Its better with the folks at Ladipo.

@Siena

If a code is not stored in the ECU memory, then it wont be there each time you start except that problem keeps showing up after being erased by an erase-capable diagnostic tool.

The tool simply communicates with the ECU to read what it has stored in its memory OR when connected and the vehicle is started and in motion, it keeps communicating with the ECU to read new codes per motion stages/phases.

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I have beeen trying to read up a lot of stuff online and trying to get a lasting solution. I believe that the reason why the car stalls is not the sensors but something else. I will change the sensors so as to have a perfect system but I still need to get to the problem.

Some suggest cleaning the MAF, siena suggested some things too. I am still checking,

From my findingss, Nissan cars seem to have MAF issues more often and that might be an area to look out for,

Will let you guys know how thingss turn out but your advises are welcome

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@Blackboi,

Is the airflow meter the same as the MAF sensor that I changed last month?

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